Monday 30 April 2012

Day 28 (April 30) Portloe to Pentewan

The skies were heavy when we left behind the comforts of home and drove to Portloe; however the weather was reasonable until I reached Caerhays (the gardens were closed due to the weather). Then it started to rain in earnest and the wind increased to gale force. By the time I reached Gorran Haven it was past a joke. I spent a while at Portmellon taking many photos of the sea breaking over the coast road, and the harbour at Mevagissey was full of boats sheltering from the storm.
What about the footie yesterday - Chelsea 6 QPR 1 - come on you blues! Blackburn look doomed. According to The Mail (and they are never wrong) Roy Hodgson is going to be the new England manager - the hierarchy are not even going to interview 'Arry Boy'!
Dave & Jason - how did you get on with your walk today?



Big fire in Falmouth - roads closed - Lyn lucky to get away. She had nothing to do with it, so she told me!

Sunday 29 April 2012

Day 27 (April 29) Rest Day

What a good decision to walk yesterday & take today as the rest day. Like most of the country it has been 'persisting' it down with winds to match. Time to clean the boots and reproof them, make some phone calls & write a letter to Devon & Cornwall Constabulary re the non-sensical fine mentioned in the blog day 19.
Have now done most of my chores and have settled down to watch Chelsea beat QPR, hopefully!
Lyn is catching up on her correspondence & sourcing potential campsites.
Great to hear from friends who are planning to walk with me soon.
Poor old Dave & Jason (see yesterday's blog). Hope you two are surviving.

Saturday 28 April 2012

Day 26 (April 28) Falmouth to Portloe

The weather forecast for tomorrow is just horrendous; therefore I decided to postpone until tomorrow my rest day.
I took the 8.30 ferry from Falmouth to St. Mawes (I was the only passenger) and then the motor boat ferry to Place. The boatman, Mike, was very kind & made no charge when he heard I was walking the SWCP in aid of the RNLI. Thank you, Mike. I will forward the fare at the end of the walk along with others who have foregone fees such as camp sites.
There were two other passengers on the motor boat, Dave & Jason. They are schoolboy friends & have been enjoying walking holidays for years. They said these holidays were magic as apart from walking they could leave their wives, kids, dog & stressful jobs behind in Kent.
Many moons ago when I was a teacher I had a very naughty boy in my class. One day as a punishment I said "Johnny, I want you to write me a poem which includes the name Timbuktu". Not an easy task for a boy in a junior school. After a while Johnny says "I've got a poem, sir". I said, "read it to the class, Johnny". He didn't really want to but I insisted, so this was his effort:
     Tim & I went down to Kent,
     We met three women in a tent.
     We couldn't think of much to do
     So I bucked one & Timbuktu.
(The old ones are the best).

Couldn't believe the walk today, it was completely out of character; basically dry paths with just a few muddy bits & the weather, was just right for walking. I was able to walk most of the way with Dave & Jason before they escaped into Pendower Beach Cafe. Thanks for your company D & J. I enjoyed it. Best of luck for the week ahead, especially tomorrow.

Lyn met me in The Lugger Hotel, Portloe; just time for a quick pint & a G&T before we drove back to Falmouth. I say 'we drove', you chaps know what I mean!

Friday 27 April 2012

Day 25 (April 27) Coverack to Falmouth

On leaving the car park by the Paris Hotel (where we 'camped') it was a lovely bright day - in fact the sunrise this morning was spectacular. The footpath however was, as expected, extremely muddy throughout the day. In fact in some places it was almost impassible - o.k. for the cows (4 footed variety) who had made many places a quagmire; in some gateways the slurry must have been 9 inches deep. Speaking of cows one particular herd took too much of an interest in yours truly. I survived albeit a bit shaken.
So I have now passed the halfway point, Porthallow (315 miles). Generally my health is good, still having some trouble with blisters, but just wish the weather could be a bit kinder; too much wind and rain.

Thursday 26 April 2012

Day 24 (April 26) Mullion Cove to Coverack

Again set off in wind & rain. All the pathways were muddy and waterlogged but the worse bit was heading towards Kynance. The route was completely awash, the pathways were streams & I had to pick my way  being very mindful of getting water over the tops of my boots. Slow progress and not much fun.
On the positive side I saw quite a few of Cornwall's 'national' bird (the feathered sort that is - not the sort wot do come from Camborne!). I was well chuffed - get it, chough. Oh, never mind.
Nearing Coverack I also saw an amphibian - it put the seal on my day.

It was another hard day's walking today & I am rather tired, old chaps. Off to the pub (Paris Hotel) for some scran.

Wednesday 25 April 2012

Day 23 (April 25) Marazion to Mullion Cove

Greeted this morning with great text from John P. - Chelsea are in the final of the Champions League. I never had any doubts!!
Set off this morning in driving rain although it soon eased. On leaving Marazion the designated path was down to the shoreline and across the short beach. What are you supposed to do when it's high tide? I had to play 'chicken' with the waves as they crashed against the cliff! Somebody tell me, why am I doing this?
The path today was muddy & covered in puddles. Squally heavy showers with strong wind all day. Somebody said I should look out for seals. well they weren't likely to poke their heads above the waves were they - it was raining - they would get wet.


Lyn was the star today; whilst changing the gas bottle she managed to lock herself out of the van. Had to call out the RAC man who had to break in (no damage - I think his previous occupation was suspect). Waited 2 hours! Not a happy bunny. Many thanks to Chelstons for their telephone support.

Tuesday 24 April 2012

Day 22 (April 24) Porthcurno to Marazion

Forgot to mention yesterday : Lyn had walked back from the Minack to meet me. When we headed back along to the van she nearly trod on the biggest viper I had ever seen with superb diamond markings on its back. "Snake, he nearly had her". Get it - adder - oh, please yourselves!
Last night the van took a beating from the wind & rain, however when I started walking, just after 7a.m., the weather was lovely although the track was very muddy. Much scrambling over rocks & boulders today.

I met a fisherman in a hamlet called Penberth Cove. After a bit of a conversation I told him I was walking the SWCP - 630 miles. He seemed totally unimpressed & told me how fit he was for a 74 year old, although he had put on a few inches around the waist. 'A few inches!', the man was at least 17 stone but assured me he ate very little & hadn't been to the pub since September. Isn't it funny how fat people always claim they don't eat much! Get real you fatties! Anyway this fisherman was winching his boat further up the beach due to the 50 m.p.h. winds expected tonight.

Day 21 (April 23) Botallack to Porthcurno

Depressed yesterday because I was unable to walk the coast path from Carbis Bay to Botallack. If only I had started a month earlier; then we had several weeks of high pressure & glorious walking conditions - since I started the walk a low pressure system seems to have taken residency in our region. Torrential rain last night. Perhaps a low pressure system is hanging over me.
Todays walk was wonderful - the strong winds had abated & the weather was bright - great for photos. However I had just reached Porthcurno when it started to bucket it down and the near gale force winds returned. Let's hope tomorrow's weather is much improved.
Lyn was able to look around the Minack Theatre site without the normal hordes of people - very impressed. Tonight we are "wild camping" courtesy of the Minack Theatre.
Melv, what exactly is the definition of a 'cape'? Cape Cornwall is supposed to be the only cape in G.B.

Sunday 22 April 2012

Day 20 (April 22) Carbis Bay to Botallack

Walked into St Ives and made decision that it would be foolish to contemplate walking this section, rated the most severe of the SWCP, due to the high winds. A great shame but better safe than sorry so I did the walk along the road. Had a quick pint in The Gurnards Head Hotel where the young landlord (?) told me he had walked the 43 miles from the hotel along the SWCP to Marazion in one day!

Yesterday my phone packed up & Lyn had to motor back to Truro to get it sorted - O2 have to send it away for repair and lent her another one.

Day 19 (April 21) Porthtowan to Carbis Bay

Today started with threatening black clouds & was very windy especially along the cliffs from Porthtowan to Portreath. After the climb out of Portreath there was a lovely level walk high above the cliffs to Hell's Mouth, Godrevy and beyond. At Gwithian I descended and walked the magnificent Gwithian & Hayle Sands to Hayle where I was met by Steve, Pat, John & Chris. It is great to get support and we walked together to Carbis Bay where John ferried me to join Lyn at the campsite.

No such support from Falmouth police - they issued a ticket for saying the motorhome was causing an obstruction. I could legally have parked the motorhome on the road opposite our house but that would have made it difficult for the buses that use this route. So I parked the motorhome partially on the pavement to avoid this. Pedestrians could still use the path although wheelchair users might have to put their wheels on the grass by the pavement. It is ludicrous that common sense gets me a ticket!

Friday 20 April 2012

Day 18 (April 20) Newquay to Porthtowan

Fantastic scenery again today but still blustery. Light drizzle for a couple of hours - excuse for a pint of Doom Bar at Driftwood Spars, St. Agnes.
Met a very interesting ex naval chap at Holywell. Told me ALL about HRH's Charles & Andrew when they were at Culdrose! Actually he didn't but you never let the truth get in the way of a good blog.

Nice article in yesterday's West Briton about 'the walk'. Thank you for the publicity - let's hope it helps with the raising of money for the RNLI. What a pity the T.V. & radio stations haven't shown the slightest interest!!

Thursday 19 April 2012

Day 17 (April 19) Trevone to Newquay

Up at 5a.m. - drive to Trevone - on with the waterproofs; more against the wind than the rain. Talking about wind, I thought that would dissipate now that Melv had returned to Norfolk, but not a bit of it - I passed a collapsed cave today (I think some people call it a blowhole).
Despite the wind, today's walk (20 miles) was memorable for the reason that the scenery was so magnificent. Lyn and I have been lucky enough to travel to many countries (including The Caribbean, South America & Australia) but I don't think I have seen more stunning beaches than we have here in Cornwall. (Unfortunately I could not take any photos after the first mile or so cos my camera battery went flat).

Wednesday 18 April 2012

Day 16 (April 18)

No improvement in the weather so walk suspended again. Sadly we said our farewells to Jacqui & Melv who had to return to Norfolk. Lyn & myself are certainly going to miss them - always very helpful, cheerful & supportive. Big, big thanks to you both.
Must share this little snippet with you: Melv says to me "Pete, is there anywhere on the route I can see the sea on my left hand side?" I said, "Melv you fool, just turn around".

Tuesday 17 April 2012

Day 15 (April 17) Rest Day

"Chicken" if you like but I made a decision at 6 a.m. to suspend 'the walk' due to the very strong, blustery winds. A coastal path is not the place to be in those conditions. We drove back to Falmouth - home comforts - bliss. Last supper with Jacqui & Melv at The Falmouth Hotel - waiter had trouble removing spoon from my shoe - don't ask!

Day 14 (April 16) Port Quin to Trevone

Do I really have to write a blog tonight - after 2 very large G & T's and 2 bottles of red wine I'm having a job to focus.
Today Melv & I went on a cruise (without an Italian captain). We travelled from Rock to Padstow. Jacqui & Lyn met us (after we had passed through customs) with crab sandwiches purchased from Rick's place. Padstein was packed with tourists which made such a contrast to the solitude of the coast path. Although Chough's Bakery had a long queue Lyn bought a couple of pasties for our lunch tomorrow; good girl.
Tomorrow is Melv's last day of walking with me; he is heartbroken poor lad.
For all those multitudes who intended walking with me I have decided to bring the rest day from Thursday to Wednesday. I know this is going to disrupt so many peoples lives but honestly I couldn't care a toss. Pass the sambucca Lyn.

Sunday 15 April 2012

Day 13 (April 15) Tintagel to Port Quin

Melv & I set off from Tintagel in lovely blue skies and sunshine which lasted all day. However I didn't see Melv for long as he decided to take some photos of a couple of girls & went the wrong way. He thought I was in front of him & set off at a hare's pace to catch me up. Chaos. What a good job Melv had his mobile phone - not. It took me one and a half hours to catch him.
Lyn was stuck in the mud - well the van was but very helpful site owner came to rescue maiden (I've used this word very loosely).
Steve Collinson, Pat, Steve's parents Ken & Cynthia journeyed up from Falmouth to give a bit of support - thanks to all of you. Steve, in fact, walked back three and a half miles from Port Isaac & joined us on the walk & continued with Melv & myself to Port Quin. We joined the rest of the gang in Port Isaac where a pasty & pint were thrust upon us.
The group of 8 gathered at the camp site where we had saffron cake, Cornish fairings, wine & beer. Then, after a quick shower for the walkers, Jacquie then drove us back to The Old School House for an evening meal. Melv, human dustbin that he is, wanted to know what was being served for supper back at camp.
On the walk today we saw a peregrine and an alpaca which was acting as bodyguard to a small flock of black sheep.

Melv has taken up studying botany - he said anything to get away from Jethro jokes.

Saturday 14 April 2012

Day 12 (April 14) Crackington Haven to Tintagel



Received a very kind offer from a reader of the blog offering a toe from one of his grandad's piglets. No, it wasn't from Del Boy Trotter!
Cathie & John travelled up from Truro & spent last evening with us, thank you both for your support. The six of us had a good meal in The Coombe Barton Inn last night but we all drank too much except for Jacqui who taxied us back to the campsite. Surprising I was the only one suffering from a hangover this morning.
Melv & I left Crackington Haven in lovely bright sunshine and soon stripped down to single tee shirts. It stayed like this until Boscastle, a delightful little harbour with a few small fishing boats. However this is where the weather took a turn for the worse. We had hail, thunder & heavy rain. Despite our waterproofs we got soaked; it even permeated our guaranteed waterproof boots. Thankfully the girls were very sympathetic when 2 drowned rats reached the campsite at Tintagel.
Tonight we are dining at a local Indian restaurant.
Do any of our readers know the name of Tonto's horse?

Friday 13 April 2012

Day 11 (April 13) Bude to Crackington Haven




Friday 13th - oh, dear, Lyn has done so well with the motorhome but today she thought she would streamline the back end. Say no more.
For Melv and I today was a short walking day with just a few steep valleys unlike yesterday which involved so many really quite precipitous valleys & trillions of steps. We got to Crackington Haven early afternoon, just before it poured with rain. I've always maintained that the sun shines on the righteous!
I know all you avid readers of this blog are dying to know the state of my toe. Well it is even more painful; every step, etc. I think gangrene has set in & amputation is only a matter of time. Is there anyone out there who is prepared to donate a small toe to use in a transplant operation? If so please give us a phone, text, blog.

Day 10 (April 12) Hartland Quay to Bude


Lyn's now managed to sort out the blog site (with Steve's help). For those who have been following, (all 3 of you!) day 8 did a vanishing trick; however it's now been reinstated.
Perfect day for walking today - slight breeze, sunshine & not too hot and fantastic sceneery. Couldn't believe the number of stiles we had to clamber over today. We also went through numerous kissing gates - I feel quite puckered.
Something I forgot to mention yesterday; Melv spotted a Mosque. Silly sod - it was a radar station. However he did spot some swallows, and we saw several more today. Melv also set a p.b. - managed 2 hours without having to wee. He also managed to give me another interesting lecture on "periglacial geomorphology" and described a "misfit stream". Can't wait for tomorrow's instalment.

Wednesday 11 April 2012

Day 9 (April 11) Clovelly to Hartland Quay

Short blog today as we're going to the pub. Lovely weather today with spectacular views. Melv said "wonderful dipping strata of Devonian red sandstone". At the end of todays walk the girls provided us with scones, strawberry jam & clotted cream, Roddas of course - none of that Devonshire stuff! Steve Collinson set up this great blog site so that our family & friends could follow the progress & post comments, etc. So come on you blog responders & start posting. You've been conspicuous by your silence.

Tuesday 10 April 2012

Day 8 (April 10) Westward Ho! to Clovelly

Sunshine & showers, muddy paths, who's idea was this? I even had a 5 hour geological lecture from my walking companion. I was totally enthralled! Saw a teenage girl on the footpath wearing sequinned slippers - the youth of today, eh. Have now ascended almost 20,000ft & walked 100 miles (only another 530 miles to go). Melv has now got a sore blister ....aaah!

Monday 9 April 2012

Day 7 (April 9) Westward Ho!

The scenery today has been unchanging. Of course this might be due to the fact that we have not moved from the campsite in which we are parked. On rising this morning the wind & rain was persistent, so we were glad that we made the decision last night to bring forward the rest day; the blistered toes are grateful.
We had a smashing full English breakfast (thank you Lyn) and have been whiling away the day doing more eating, drinking & playing silly games, like Boggle.
Must say that the motorhome is exceeding our expectations as the back-up vehicle; and whilst we are at it let me say a big thank you to Chelstons for their generous support.

Sunday 8 April 2012

Day 6 (April 8) Barnstaple to Westward Ho!

Perhaps I wrote yesterday's blog too soon after getting back to the motorhome. Upon reflection yesterday's walk was not so uninteresting; it had glorious views across Croyde Bay & Saunton Sands. Todays walk was flat (a nice break) and Melv and I decided to carry on to Westward Ho! instead of finishing, as planned, at Appledore. Melv lost my RNLI cap - you can't trust him with anything! My little toe is even more painful & I have a new blister on a big toe! We may well not walk to Clovelly tomorrow as rain & high winds are forecast. We may take the rest day one day early.

Saturday 7 April 2012

Day 5 (April 7) Woolacombe to Barnstaple

Uninteresting walk today except for reminiscences with Melv. I'm sure Jacqui doesn't know half of it and of course I'm far too much of a gentleman to divulge! We got back to the mobile home and our wives were actually there to let us in - for a change!! Little toe even more painful ..... aaah!

Friday 6 April 2012

Day 4 (April 6) Combe Martin to Woolacombe (Putsborough Sand)

Long standing friends Melv & Jacqui, from Norfolk have now joined us in their passion wagon. Melv, despite his painful Achilles, will be walking with me for the next 12 days whilst Jacqui will be cooking wonderful meals with Lyn.
So today we had 7 walkers, Mark, Kerra, Kyle, Holly, Melv, myself and Milo the spotty dog. Mark & Holly walked as far as Lee Bay - very good for an eight year old girl (Mark)!! Kyle (10 years old ) completed to Putsborough Sands with the rest of us. I've got a blistered, sore little toe - everyone ...aaaah!

Thursday 5 April 2012

Day 3 (April 5) Lynton to Combe Martin (Watermouth Bay)

I said to this chap "5 days before I started my walk I twisted my knee. I couldn't get up our stairs". To which he replied "do you live in a bungalow?"

The walk today was quite strenuous - 2 particularly hard climbs and exceptionally windy.
Meeting up this evening with my nephew Mark, (golf professional at Ilfracombe Golf Club) wife Kerra, their son Kyle and daughter Holly. Should be a good evening.

Day 2 (April 4) Porlock Weir to Valley of Rocks




Very cold today 0 C. A few snow flakes fell upon me but too few to mention - so I won't. Who said you can't get lost on the coast path - I did, twice! Saw a lamb being born, I said to Lyn "ewe would have liked that". Now camping at Valley of Rocks (Lynton). Lots of ponies and goats for company on our 42nd wedding anniversary.

Day 1 (April 3) Minehead to Porlock Weir



Thank you all for your best wishes. Completed 1st day without mishaps. Glad to get to Porlock Weir before the rain set in. Lyn getting used to driving the motorhome!! Time now for a G & T before dinner.