Day 37 (May 9) Brixham to Shaldon

It was good to catch up with Graham & Melissa last evening - good food and chat. For those of you who don't know them Graham is a king quizzer & Melissa, who is excelling in her 6th form, is rapidly becoming one as well - queen quizzer!
I shouldn't have blogged yesterday about God cos today he got his own back. All day it fell on John P. & myself, rain that is. It made some of the path very slippery & if I was walking by myself it would have been very unpleasant. John's & my normal banter about sport, politics, etc. helped us on along our way; but absolutely no photos today. Anyway, after a nice hot shower, things seem brighter.
5p.m. & Melv has now arrived, kindly ferried across from Bovey Tracey by Graham. (Melv is leaving his limousine at Graham's). Melv was very critical about Graham's new Jag - said it wasn't a patch on his 23 year old Volvo!
The three of us are about to go out for a birthday celebration (Barbara's) with John & Babs to an Italian restaurant in Teignmouth. Will report back on tomorrow's blog.

Day 36 (May 8) Strete to Brixham

Again the van was lashed with rain last night but it cleared just as I was setting out. Perhaps the sun does shine on the righteous after all. Talking about celestial beings I reckon God wasn't very bright; he was O.K. in little matters like creating the earth and stuff but why oh why didn't he put the hills into the valleys. Then I wouldn't have to climb one bloody hill and then descend into a valley only to have to climb another boggin hill. If only God had my wisdom! You can't get decent Gods these days.
And another thing - have any of you (my millions of avid blog-readers) been on the lower ferry between Dartmouth and Kingswear? The ferry (or raft) is pulled along by a motor boat. As soon as it leaves the anchorage the boat does a 180 degrees turn. Why can't the boat just reverse across the river? Maybe it was done this way because it originally had a woman driver.
John P is joining me for the walk tomorrow, Brixham to Shaldon & says he might even join me the next day, Shaldon to Sidmouth. It will be good to have John's company - he was the chap who got me interested in walking when we were neighbours in Devon so he's got a lot to answer for. I've promised John I won't mention football as he is a keen Blackburn supporter - tee, hee!

Another Devon neighbour, Graham & his daughter Melissa are joining us tonight for a meal out in Brixham. Should be a good laugh and catch up with gossip.

Day 35 (May 7) Salcombe to Strete

Last night the rain just hammered it down on the van. I woke this morning, at about 6a.m., and thought 'I don't want to walk in this'. I did wonder whether the ferry at Salcombe would be running. However, by the time ablutions were complete, breakfast taken and we had journeyed to Salcombe the weather had dramatically improved.
The ferry crossing was fine but the ferryman was uncommunicative almost to the point of being rude.
The actual walk, although described in the SWCP Association handbook as strenuous was, I thought, undemanding except for a couple of exposed headlands. I met several other walkers en route - one quite posh geezer suggested I might try this restaurant in Strete called The Laughing Monk. We did, and it was top notch.

Now writing this blog after too much good food and wine so if it sounds a bit inebriated, well I'm not surprised - good night.

Day 34 (May 6) Soar Cove to Salcombe / Rest Day

Perfect walking conditions - overcast with a gentle breeze. Lyn decided to join me on the walk from our campsite to Salcombe and a very nice walk it was too. Had coffee & cake in Salcombe, then tried phoning for a taxi to take us back to Higher Rew. we tried several taxi companies but none was able to oblige us until mid afternoon at earliest - peasants! Therefore we caught the water ferry from Salcombe back to South sands and walked from there - as if I needed some extra walking!

1p.m. and I'm not going to do anything else today except make some phone calls, eat, drink and bask in the glory of Chelsea beating the Scousers in the F.A. Cup Final yesterday.

Day 33 (May 5) Bigbury to Soar Cove

It's been wind & rain all night - delayed start. Wasn't able to make contact with man who operates ferry between Cockleridge (just outside of Bigbury) last evening so had to drive round - big detour and narrow lanes. Hope ferryman's boat springs a leak, or his wife runs away with the milkman.
Very windy walk all the way to Soar Mill Cove - then cut inland to campsite Lyn had booked at Higher Rew. As tomorrow is a rest day I decided to walk the remainder of today's planned walk to Salcombe tomorrow.

Campsite is much more civilised than yesterday's - hot showers, etc. I suppose I could try to use our van's T.V. to watch Chelsea beat Liverpool in the FA Cup Final but I am quite happy not to watch it and just bask in the company of my wife!!

Day 32 (May 4) Mt. Batten to Bigbury

Overcast with poor visibility out to sea - slight breeze.
Good path most of the way - made good progress to Noss Mayo. Ferryman said I should get a real move on if I intended crossing the River Erme on foot. He reckoned if I got there after 1p.m. it would not be possible. Although I walked quicker than usual I arrived at the River Erme at almost 1p.m. I didn't know where the exact crossing point was - it all looked improbable but I asked a chap exercising his dogs on the flats. He said it was fordable if I got a wriggle on because the tide was coming in and gave me the benefit of his local knowledge. So I took off my boots & socks, rolled trousers up and set oof. The water came up to my knees but I was across only just in time!
The rest of the walk was comparatively uneventful - the normal ups & downs, steps, etc. - the sun made a late appearance for a while.

Tonight we are staying at Mount Folly Farm - we have a hook-up but the facilities are the pits. At least the sheep aren't complaining although I have heard one or two bleats!

Day 31 (May 3) Portwrinkle to Mt. Batten

Weather overcast, no wind. After 20 minutes I had damp feet - so much for my almost new Merrell boots - will be taking them back to Cotswolds when I've finished the walk.
Had to take the longish detour around the M.O.D's Tregantle Firing Ranges cos else they would have shot me! The coast path took me around Rame Head & Penlee Point which would have provided good photo opportunities if the sun was out, but it wasn't. Trundled on to the delightful Cawsand & Kingsand villages, and then into the grounds of Mt. Edgcumbe Country Park. The only deer I saw were old ones.
After taking the wrong path (twice) I ended up just missing the Cremyll Ferry which allowed me just enough time to sink a pint of Proper job in the Edgcumbe Arms - must go back sometime to sample the food which looked very tasty. Walked through familiar territory of the Hoe and the Barbican where I met up with Lyn. She had done some shopping but wouldn't tell me what she had bought! Took ferry to Mt. Batten where we are spending the night in a car park (next to Mt. Batten Hotel where we will be eating tonight).

According to SWCP handbook I have now completed 419 miles with a cumulative ascent of over 80,000 ft.

Day 30 (May 2) Polruan to Portwrinkle

What a wonderful day - sunshine & gentle breeze all day - it makes such a difference.
After spending half an hour doing the normal ritual of taping & plastering of my feet I left the campsite at 6.45 & made excellent time along the good path. Arrived in Polperro at 9.45 - pity the tide was out cos I think Polperro is the most quintessentially quaint Cornish fishing port which looks terrific when there is water in the harbour.
Lovely easy walk to Looe - another typical fishing port with loads of charm. I took the ferry from West to East Looe - 40p! Then onto Portwrinkle (very small harbour) where we are staying overnight in a car park. 19 miles today.
Saw a dead porpoise on a beach - also saw lots of shags.

Saw more people than normal today, obviously due to the lovely weather, especially between Polperrow and Looe. Met this Canadian chap. We exchanged a few pleasantries, like you do, then he says to me "you walk in the rain - you're my kind of man!" Well ...... nephew Mark has always said "don't knock it until you've tried it" but there are some things I don't want to try - like boiled puffin mince & dumplings. Talking about mince I rapidly said 'have a good day' to the nice Canadian man & quickened my pace.

Day 29 (May 1) Pentewan to Fowey (Polruan)

What a change from yesterday. We woke this morning to sunshine and NO WIND or RAIN! It stayed this way for about 3 hours & then it began to get breezy. However no rain today.
My very comfortable gortex type boots have given up - they are about 9 years old and recently I had them re-soled. However, despite me giving them TLC the stitching has perished. Only 15 minutes into today's walk and my feet were soaking. Will have to use my Merrells from now on. Hope they don't give me blisters - have got enough already.
Lyn has had fun today driving the van along the narrow Cornish lanes - apparently Fowey ferry was an adventure! Still she had plenty of time to stroll around Fowey once she was ensconced at Polruan camp site. Even admitted to having a pasty for lunch. Waistline? What waistline?!
About 2 hours ago this family turned up on site towing the smallest caravan I have ever seen. Mum, dad, daughter, grandchild & dog. He took about 10 turns at reversing his caravan onto his pitch, failed & left it, well, fairly close. The family has since been trying to erect an awning thingy on the side of the caravan without much success. Much arguing, arms waving, etc. Mum, daughter & dog have now disappeared leaving dad to erect a small tent - he's given up on the awning thingy. I don't think he's having much success with the tent either. Do you think I should give him a hand, no that will probably make it worse! No we'll just drink our wine and watch the entertainment!
Does anyone know anything about the sculptures (see piccy)?

Day 28 (April 30) Portloe to Pentewan

The skies were heavy when we left behind the comforts of home and drove to Portloe; however the weather was reasonable until I reached Caerhays (the gardens were closed due to the weather). Then it started to rain in earnest and the wind increased to gale force. By the time I reached Gorran Haven it was past a joke. I spent a while at Portmellon taking many photos of the sea breaking over the coast road, and the harbour at Mevagissey was full of boats sheltering from the storm.
What about the footie yesterday - Chelsea 6 QPR 1 - come on you blues! Blackburn look doomed. According to The Mail (and they are never wrong) Roy Hodgson is going to be the new England manager - the hierarchy are not even going to interview 'Arry Boy'!
Dave & Jason - how did you get on with your walk today?

Big fire in Falmouth - roads closed - Lyn lucky to get away. She had nothing to do with it, so she told me!

Day 27 (April 29) Rest Day

What a good decision to walk yesterday & take today as the rest day. Like most of the country it has been 'persisting' it down with winds to match. Time to clean the boots and reproof them, make some phone calls & write a letter to Devon & Cornwall Constabulary re the non-sensical fine mentioned in the blog day 19.
Have now done most of my chores and have settled down to watch Chelsea beat QPR, hopefully!
Lyn is catching up on her correspondence & sourcing potential campsites.
Great to hear from friends who are planning to walk with me soon.
Poor old Dave & Jason (see yesterday's blog). Hope you two are surviving.

Day 26 (April 28) Falmouth to Portloe

The weather forecast for tomorrow is just horrendous; therefore I decided to postpone until tomorrow my rest day.
I took the 8.30 ferry from Falmouth to St. Mawes (I was the only passenger) and then the motor boat ferry to Place. The boatman, Mike, was very kind & made no charge when he heard I was walking the SWCP in aid of the RNLI. Thank you, Mike. I will forward the fare at the end of the walk along with others who have foregone fees such as camp sites.
There were two other passengers on the motor boat, Dave & Jason. They are schoolboy friends & have been enjoying walking holidays for years. They said these holidays were magic as apart from walking they could leave their wives, kids, dog & stressful jobs behind in Kent.
Many moons ago when I was a teacher I had a very naughty boy in my class. One day as a punishment I said "Johnny, I want you to write me a poem which includes the name Timbuktu". Not an easy task for a boy in a junior school. After a while Johnny says "I've got a poem, sir". I said, "read it to the class, Johnny". He didn't really want to but I insisted, so this was his effort:
     Tim & I went down to Kent,
     We met three women in a tent.
     We couldn't think of much to do
     So I bucked one & Timbuktu.
(The old ones are the best).

Couldn't believe the walk today, it was completely out of character; basically dry paths with just a few muddy bits & the weather, was just right for walking. I was able to walk most of the way with Dave & Jason before they escaped into Pendower Beach Cafe. Thanks for your company D & J. I enjoyed it. Best of luck for the week ahead, especially tomorrow.

Lyn met me in The Lugger Hotel, Portloe; just time for a quick pint & a G&T before we drove back to Falmouth. I say 'we drove', you chaps know what I mean!

Day 25 (April 27) Coverack to Falmouth

On leaving the car park by the Paris Hotel (where we 'camped') it was a lovely bright day - in fact the sunrise this morning was spectacular. The footpath however was, as expected, extremely muddy throughout the day. In fact in some places it was almost impassible - o.k. for the cows (4 footed variety) who had made many places a quagmire; in some gateways the slurry must have been 9 inches deep. Speaking of cows one particular herd took too much of an interest in yours truly. I survived albeit a bit shaken.

So I have now passed the halfway point, Porthallow (315 miles). Generally my health is good, still having some trouble with blisters, but just wish the weather could be a bit kinder; too much wind and rain.

Day 24 (April 26) Mullion Cove to Coverack

Again set off in wind & rain. All the pathways were muddy and waterlogged but the worse bit was heading towards Kynance. The route was completely awash, the pathways were streams & I had to pick my way  being very mindful of getting water over the tops of my boots. Slow progress and not much fun.
On the positive side I saw quite a few of Cornwall's 'national' bird (the feathered sort that is - not the sort wot do come from Camborne!). I was well chuffed - get it, chough. Oh, never mind.
Nearing Coverack I also saw an amphibian - it put the seal on my day.

It was another hard day's walking today & I am rather tired, old chaps. Off to the pub (Paris Hotel) for some scran.

Day 23 (April 25) Marazion to Mullion Cove

Greeted this morning with great text from John P. - Chelsea are in the final of the Champions League. I never had any doubts!!
Set off this morning in driving rain although it soon eased. On leaving Marazion the designated path was down to the shoreline and across the short beach. What are you supposed to do when it's high tide? I had to play 'chicken' with the waves as they crashed against the cliff! Somebody tell me, why am I doing this?
The path today was muddy & covered in puddles. Squally heavy showers with strong wind all day. Somebody said I should look out for seals. well they weren't likely to poke their heads above the waves were they - it was raining - they would get wet.

Lyn was the star today; whilst changing the gas bottle she managed to lock herself out of the van. Had to call out the RAC man who had to break in (no damage - I think his previous occupation was suspect). Waited 2 hours! Not a happy bunny. Many thanks to Chelstons for their telephone support.

Day 22 (April 24) Porthcurno to Marazion

Forgot to mention yesterday : Lyn had walked back from the Minack to meet me. When we headed back along to the van she nearly trod on the biggest viper I had ever seen with superb diamond markings on its back. "Snake, he nearly had her". Get it - adder - oh, please yourselves!
Last night the van took a beating from the wind & rain, however when I started walking, just after 7a.m., the weather was lovely although the track was very muddy. Much scrambling over rocks & boulders today.

I met a fisherman in a hamlet called Penberth Cove. After a bit of a conversation I told him I was walking the SWCP - 630 miles. He seemed totally unimpressed & told me how fit he was for a 74 year old, although he had put on a few inches around the waist. 'A few inches!', the man was at least 17 stone but assured me he ate very little & hadn't been to the pub since September. Isn't it funny how fat people always claim they don't eat much! Get real you fatties! Anyway this fisherman was winching his boat further up the beach due to the 50 m.p.h. winds expected tonight.

Day 21 (April 23) Botallack to Porthcurno

Depressed yesterday because I was unable to walk the coast path from Carbis Bay to Botallack. If only I had started a month earlier; then we had several weeks of high pressure & glorious walking conditions - since I started the walk a low pressure system seems to have taken residency in our region. Torrential rain last night. Perhaps a low pressure system is hanging over me.
Todays walk was wonderful - the strong winds had abated & the weather was bright - great for photos. However I had just reached Porthcurno when it started to bucket it down and the near gale force winds returned. Let's hope tomorrow's weather is much improved.
Lyn was able to look around the Minack Theatre site without the normal hordes of people - very impressed. Tonight we are "wild camping" courtesy of the Minack Theatre.

Melv, what exactly is the definition of a 'cape'? Cape Cornwall is supposed to be the only cape in G.B.

Day 20 (April 22) Carbis Bay to Botallack

Walked into St Ives and made decision that it would be foolish to contemplate walking this section, rated the most severe of the SWCP, due to the high winds. A great shame but better safe than sorry so I did the walk along the road. Had a quick pint in The Gurnards Head Hotel where the young landlord (?) told me he had walked the 43 miles from the hotel along the SWCP to Marazion in one day!

Yesterday my phone packed up & Lyn had to motor back to Truro to get it sorted - O2 have to send it away for repair and lent her another one.

Day 19 (April 21) Porthtowan to Carbis Bay

Today started with threatening black clouds & was very windy especially along the cliffs from Porthtowan to Portreath. After the climb out of Portreath there was a lovely level walk high above the cliffs to Hell's Mouth, Godrevy and beyond. At Gwithian I descended and walked the magnificent Gwithian & Hayle Sands to Hayle where I was met by Steve, Pat, John & Chris. It is great to get support and we walked together to Carbis Bay where John ferried me to join Lyn at the campsite.

No such support from Falmouth police - they issued a ticket for saying the motorhome was causing an obstruction. I could legally have parked the motorhome on the road opposite our house but that would have made it difficult for the buses that use this route. So I parked the motorhome partially on the pavement to avoid this. Pedestrians could still use the path although wheelchair users might have to put their wheels on the grass by the pavement. It is ludicrous that common sense gets me a ticket!

Day 18 (April 20) Newquay to Porthtowan

Fantastic scenery again today but still blustery. Light drizzle for a couple of hours - excuse for a pint of Doom Bar at Driftwood Spars, St. Agnes.
Met a very interesting ex naval chap at Holywell. Told me ALL about HRH's Charles & Andrew when they were at Culdrose! Actually he didn't but you never let the truth get in the way of a good blog.

Nice article in yesterday's West Briton about 'the walk'. Thank you for the publicity - let's hope it helps with the raising of money for the RNLI. What a pity the T.V. & radio stations haven't shown the slightest interest!!